Climbing walls/rockfaces without mechanical assistance.
Throughout the programme the emphasis should be on the enjoyment of moving over rock and the ways in which this can be done controlling the essential adventure within a framework of safety.
Rock Climbing
What
is it?
Climbing walls/rockfaces without mechanical assistance.
Throughout the programme the emphasis should be on the enjoyment of moving
over rock and the ways in which this can be done controlling the essential
adventure within a framework of safety.
Safety
Message
Instruction in the practical aspects of this rock climbing programme must
be supervised by people holding an SPA or a higher Award such as BMG, Aspirant
BMG, MIC or MIA. Instructors should operate only in the environments for which
they are qualified.
Ideas/Aims
Those items marked with an asterix (*) can only be effectively demonstrated
on outdoor cliffs but otherwise everything can be practised and demonstrated
either on artificial climbing walls or on cliffs.
Through your participation you should:
• Appreciate the needs of other crag users
particularly regarding safety, noise and litter and have an awareness and
understanding of the issues and problems affecting access to climbing areas.
• Consider these needs whilst at the crag
and leave the crag in the same or better condition than that on arrival.
• Understand the ways and means of reducing
the erosion of the crag environment.*
• Have an awareness of access restrictions.*
• Secure and adjust a climbing harness correctly.
• Fit a helmet and take responsibility for
wearing it as necessary.
• Choose suitable ropes and understand the
usage of full, and half weight ropes and single and double rope techniques.
• Choose appropriate clothing, including
footwear and equipment for the crag and the climb being undertaken.
• Become familiar with the knots used in
climbing (e.g. figure of eight, clove hitch, overhand, bowline) and be able
to:
(a) Tie rope directly into the climbing harness
(b) Tie to karabiner using clove hitch and/or a figure of eight knot
(c) Tie to multiple anchors - equalising the load
(d) Coil a rope
• Choose secure anchors.
• Place a sling and karabiner on a spike
and on a thread belay.
• Place a variety of artificial chockstones
and camming devices for use as belays.*
• Choose appropriate position and stance
for top roping and bottom roping.
• Choose appropriate position and stance
for belaying a leader.
• Show an understanding of the properties
of a variety of belay devices.
• Attach rope to a belay device and correctly
take in rope through the device.
• Pay out and take in rope for a leader climbing
a pitch placing running belays.
• Perform lower-offs from the bottom.
• Use
a workable system of communications between climbers, particularly 'safe'
and 'climb when ready'.
• Understand and demonstrate the use of various
types of belays.
• Climb carefully and efficiently at an appropriate
standard demonstrating the techniques of climbing a variety of rock features
such as slabs, arêtes, chimneys, cracks, etc.
• Undertake single-pitch climbs as either
a leader or second.
• Perform an abseil using a safety rope.
• Be lowered by another climber.
• Practice climbing down.
• Undertake multi-pitch climbs.*
• Use a variety of rock climbing venues.
• Have an understanding of the British and
French grading system.
• Develop an appreciation of the effects
of conditions on graded climbs, when climbing outdoors.
• Develop a knowledge of crag features and
be able to recognise them.
• Consider the emergency procedures while
engaged in climbing, i.e.:
(a) What emergency equipment to carry
(b) Where to get help
(c) Nearest telephone
(d) Where to find shelter*
(e) Understanding the importance of warming up and injury avoidance.
• Show an understanding of the historical
development of climbing in the UK.
• Understand the environmental impacts of
climbing on the crags.
• Understand the need for season climbing
restrictions in some areas and the reasons for them.
Review/Assessment
Participants should discuss with the assessor the safety requirements for
this sport, the skills which they have learnt while participating in it and
review their progress against targets set.
Governing Body/Organisation
British Mountaineering Council, 177-179 Burton Road, West Disbury, Manchester,
M20 2BB
Tel: 0161 445 4747